So…the time has come for our 3-day high mountain horse riding trek, with an overnight stay in a typical yurt, with all the spicy details included.
I cannot miss to mention the delightful breakfast in our B&B house. There was coffee! There was amazing hospitality. I highly recommend Karakol Yurt Lodge! (I do not receive any kind of paid commission for this recommendation, I was simply deeply impressed).
Nightly rate, breakfast included 10 $US per person (we were 3 of us, so 30 $US in total)
As I already mentioned, Almaz – our host and the owner of the horses, was extremely kind. His kindness was most likely sourced from the shock, which he received when he saw the 3 of us.
Pretty big disclaimer…first and foremost, none of us can actually ride well, which was kind of expected when booking this kind of trip, and if I have to be terribly honest, we do not ride at all. Myself, after realising what I have booked, back in the flat UK, I took few hastily done riding lessons. This stressed me even more, as I realised the monumental task in front of us. My lovely lady friends were deeply unsuspected participants in my crazy plans and did not pay much attention to my subtle suggestions, that they should probably get few lessons themselves.
Furthermore, none of us was in any kind of good physical shape, which was once again kind of expected when booking this kind of trip. After all, enthusiasm will only last for a while, some actual physical strength is required.
Lastly… put aside our lack of physical shape and strength, the average age of our little group is 50 years old, regardless of that fact the we probably look 35 (or I hope so…). Evidentially, for Kyrghizstan, this was definitely not the ideal age to do this kind of adventures.
This incredible mix of aspects regarding our group, completely catches off guard Almaz, who has not got the slightest of ideas how to proceed, but decides that voicing his concerns will just not get him far. He decides to simply mention and warn us, as an unwritten disclaimer that the trip ahead will be significantly hard and the 2nd day is actually dangerous. He can see that this as well will not make us quit and he just leaves us get on with it. His only comments were: ‘’I would like to observe how you will even get on the horses…’’ I decide to pass on the supposedly insulting comments to my lady friends, which actually forced a big smile on their faces.
Asia looks at Almaz, winks at him and says: ‘’Just watch me’’
Miloslava looks completely confident and ready – or simply death stone quite.
It’s quite obvious by now, that I am completely stressed – not least because I made everyone do this insanity.
I highly recommend, the mountain horse riding trip by Almaz – Bulak Say Horseback and Trekking – once again, I do not receive any commission for my recommendations, it’s simply really well done. Put aside the low price, everything is incredibly authentic.
N.B: If you prefer a luxurious holiday, this will not be your cup of tea.
The total cost for a 3-day trip, food and accommodation included for the 3 of us was $US 340
Meanwhile, Almaz takes us with his car to a delightful flat lawn, where our 3 designated horses and our guide were waiting for us. We have all prepared a small backpack for the ride, however the rest of our luggage has to be taken, uphill to the base yurt camp site.
The guide asks the best question ever: Who amongst you is most experienced?
My lady friends of course all look at me and unwillingly, I raise my hand. I am left last.
The most unexperienced, bravely self-declared is Asia and she receives the most docile horse and is positioned at the front of our brave group.
Miloslava is the follower, her horse is also quite behaved.
I am left with a 3-year-old energetic horse, who just like me still has a lot to learn – it will be interesting…Pffff!
Completely baffled, Almaz has just witnessed how all 3 of us managed to actually get on the horses, admittedly by helping each other. I reserve my rights as an author not to show images of this particular sequence of events. And so, this completely stupid idea has been put into motion.
According to the schedule today, we should complete a 5-hour trek in order to reach the base camp. Evidentially, this is quite a generous time frame. Realistically, this distance could be taken much faster, and so considering the breaks, the jokes and the lunch in between, we manage to reach the camp in about 4 hours.
We are now in the ‘’Heavenly Mountain’’ Tian Shan, which is located between Kazakhstan, Kyrghizstan and China. Also known as ‘’The Holy Mountain’’, with highest peak Jengish Chokusu, also called Pobeda (‘’Victory’’ in Russian), towering at 7439m. It is located south of Altai, the cradle of the Turks kettle herders. This is the exact place where these tribes come from and from where they start migrating to North Siberia, Caucasus region and the East Carpathian range. Professor Vasil Zlatarski points out that Tian Shan is actually the ancient Imeon Imai, where the ancient Bulgarian tribes started their journey West. One of the central ranges of Tian Shan was called in 1861, Bolgar. Today this name is forgotten, but in its most easterly region there is a peak called Omurtag, and even more intriguing that the 2nd highest peak in the Heavenly Mountain is Khan Tengri, which directly translated from Turkish means sky or heaven. The Yakutia tribe calls it Tangara, and the Mongols – Tengereen (‘Earth’ Newspaper, September 2012)
Tian Shan is actually not completely free to roam – there are regions that a special permit is required and people like Almaz work in the region as high altitude tourism guides. It turns out that, actually Kirgizstan has started encouraging its ski Tourism. This is an incredible place for people longing for wild and untouched beauty… Karakol is actually the central and starting point for all things related to alpine tourism in Kyrghizstan. There are a number of treks starting from there. We have chosen one of the more popular ones.
The access with 4×4 vehicles is restricted and you can only reach a region called Hot Springs, which is located at about 2500m altitude. Further on, the only way to continue is by foot or horses.
The trek to the Hot Springs is indeed very beautiful, if you are or of course, not on horse trying all your best not to fall off on your head…
In all truth, Asia and Miloslava are actually doing great! They move quite gracefully, enjoying the beautiful views. On the other hand, I am in complete stress meltdown, so is our guide, as I vocally experience every stone and hill along the way.
I am also extremely eager to take some photos of this eerily beautiful landscape. Between my desire to take few pictures and the constant battle I fight with my not so experienced horse, the odds of me falling on my head are extremely high. I am in an emotionally very strange place, stuck somewhere between my love for the mountains, the fantastic views and the sheer fear of tumbling down on my head.
In this moment, I remember a very sound advice from a friend – ‘’ Riding a horse should be very natural, just like sex, just let the horse do all the work and enjoy the ride’’, and this definitely makes me feel much better. My vocalisations remain a constant part of the trek, which is a stark difference to my ‘’unexperienced’’ companions. They remain completely calm and quite.
We stop for a lunch and we try to give a break to our battered bodies. I am not in much mood for food though, my only thought is how I will climb back on the horse.
To be completely honest, we do improve as the time goes by. Our guide finds us some rocks from which the horses can do a small leap. We manage, miraculously to remain on the back of the horse.
The going gets tougher and the path gets steeper. Frankly speaking the official path is quite smooth, however our guide does not follow it strictly and takes us to some extreme places. And when he makes a sharp turn up to the hill, my heart literally stopped beating…
We finally reach the Hot Springs and the view we receive as a gift to our efforts is magnificent. We reach a state of emotional orgasm when we see the Yurt camp.
We really have chosen an authentic experience. The yurt accommodation is completely basic. The way the Kyrgyz live in the mountain, this is the way we will live as well.
There are few yurt camps in the surrounding areas, where you can find yurts equipped with bathrooms inside, which is obviously not the traditional way, and in my humble opinion you would lose some of the atmosphere of this fantastic place.
And we enjoyed our place like children…
I got asked by friends – how do people shower there? I did ask. Exactly the same way as in rural Bulgaria hundreds of years ago. During the winter, a pit is built, hot water is brought to the pit, and everyone waits for their turn to take a bath. During the summer is easier – you have the river. In this region, however, as the name suggests it, there are hot springs and an ancient bath. It was heavenly good.
We are taken care of by few Russian girls – they really do know how to cook. I will not even begin to describe how delicious everything was. My lady friends have brought some Rakia from Bulgaria, I really do enjoy it! We offer a drink to our Kyrgyz hosts and they gladly accept. You will never see them however drink more than 50ml and they are incredibly honoured to share a drink with us. It is utterly enjoyable.
The last thing I remember from this first night is after I take a bath, is that I immediately fall deeply asleep…
To be continued…
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